29.6.14

DIOR HOMME S/S 15










































Kris Van Assche found inspiration from Christian Dior himself, when looking into archives he discovered a letter that was penned by Dior, which read "Traditions have to be maintained," Dior wrote. "In troubled times like ours, we must maintain these traditions, which are our luxury and the flower of our civilization." Van Assche was so moved by his words, that the writings were printed onto clothes themselves. They were printed on jackets and trousers, often teamed together.

Van Assche wanted to use a relaxed method, he said it was new to him. The models walked casually with their hands in their pockets, whilst the clothes charmed the audience. The collection uses some beautiful colours, ranging from deep navy to bright bumble-bee yellow. After last seasons collection, using jeans and simple sneakers, Van Assche let that inspiration flow into this collection. The collection is very well rounded, focusing on sophisticated clothes, as well as more youthful, casual clothes.

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GIVENCHY S/S 15











































For Givenchy this season, Riccardo Tisci wanted to play around with formal clothes. There was a strong school-boy brute theme in this collection as the models wore skullcaps in their black blazers, white shirst, black trousers and black ties. The models wore black boots with white laces, adding to their mean appearance. No rottweilers, no sharks or stars this collection, but a print of gypsophila, otherwise known as baby's breath. Printed almost elegantly on sheer vests and tops (not pictured above) and on bomber jackets and trousers.

I think this collection is really clean compared to Tisci's past collections, I really enjoyed the first few looks. I like the rough school-boy image that he presented, they look very strong, masculine and powerful. But the school-boy influences, add a touch of youth and innocence, which juxtaposes the whole look. Sidenote, I'm just doing two more reviews for this season and that's it. I might do another outfit post soon, because that went down really well. Have a wonderful day and I'll post again in a few hours.

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28.6.14

LOUIS VUITTON S/S 15












































Kim Jones, lead designer for the menswear branch of Louis Vuitton studied at Central Saint Martins during his early years. He was taught by the late Louise Wilson, his professor at the time, who has sadly died. But, before her death, she told him to visit India and gain inspiration. Thus, he did and this collection was dedicated to her. Jones began this season with inspiration from the body guards in India and their militarist uniform, for example strong suede jumpsuits, or razor-sharp tailoring on jackets. Naturally, military tones were born into this collection, using khakis and oranges. 

A really clean collection from Kim Jones this season, this was definitely something I was expecting. Smart, sophisticated outfits, with a personal and meaningful under-layer. The classic Louis Vuitton suitcase made an appearance, only this time without the famous print. Coincidently, the maharajas of Jodhpur and Jaipur were big Vuitton customers in the twenties. I like it, there's clearly something for the consumers, as well as something personal to Kim himself.

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VALENTINO S/S 15









































Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were inspired by a number of male muses this season, names from Spanish painter Picasso to French poet Cocteau. For Valentino this season, it was all about bringing couture to menswear. Couture in the forms of the materials used, style of which the clothes were cut, and patterns printed across jackets and tops. Couture is about uniqueness and individualism, clearly stated by the one-of-a-kind clothes in this collection. Note the intricate explosion of butterflies on suits and jackets, or the boyish charm of wool, used as finely as silk on look #3.

This is among my favourites from all the collections I've reviewed. I really like #2, 3 and 6, it's charming. The clothes are styled so effortlessly, yet maintain an element of grace and precision. This is what sets high-fashion from high-street, can you imagine these in River Island or Burton? There's certainly masculinity here, but a soft one and that is what makes this collection, beautiful.

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FENDI S/S 15








































Silvia Venturini wanted to present a simple collection this season, she showcased simple leather jackets, with smart chinos and sandals, some accessorised with weaved leather handbags and even adorned with headphones, which was collaborated with Beats by Dr. Dre. Of course, the headphones were covered with leather and teamed with smartly tailored clothes. All of the models wore sandals this season, even with suits, resulting in an interesting combination of style. It somewhat reminds me of the deconstruction of fashion, teaming two unlikely things together, creating a beautiful end result.

Silvia claimed she was inspired by Bob Marley and his simple style of dress. The way he wore his t-shirt with a pair of basic jeans and threw on a leather jacket, which is clearly exhibited in this collection. I like it, there's something beautiful in simple clothes, it's awfully clean. Even the way the models wore sandals with a leather jacket, or a suit. On paper, that sounds horrible, but here? It looks very stylish. Silvia clearly cleaned it up though, adding touches of luxury here and there, just as expected by the house of Fendi.

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27.6.14

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION S/S 15




For Spring 2015, Italo Zucchelli presented yet another collection on minimalism. Only this time, he wanted to emphasise the youth of the male models, seen in simple tees and boots combined with strength and athleticism, represented by the clothes and it's sporty influences. Backstage he said, "Transparency is very important to move ahead with straightforwardness and simplicity." which makes perfect sense. The collection this year used skin tones, in contrast with bright pops of oranges, reds and yellows. There was also a keen emphasis on juxtaposition this season, teaming a double-breasted blazer, with mesh shorts and sneaker-boots.

I like this collection, as a keen minimalist myself, I really find the clothes wearable and very stylish. Monochrome is what Calvin Klein is known for, and does best. There is something so nonchalant and stylish about wearing only one colour. It speaks 'I didn't really consider what I wore this morning.' and 'I still care about fashion and my appearance' at the same time. The collection can be dressed in separate pieces, to emphasise it's sportiness or it's formality, showing it's endless versatility.

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ICEBERG S/S 15











































According to Iceberg's press release, the show was all about nature. Despite the synthetic appearance of the collection, the show used wools, cottons and silks.To contrast the nature-concious materials, the show featured marbled tie-dye prints, printed abstractly on silk shirts and hoodies. Similarly, the show presented bold colours, resulting in an interesting disharmony between the materials and the look of the clothes. There was a strong outdoor feel to the collection, which is perfect for summer - materials cool enough for the heat, jumpers which are not too heavy, all appropriate for summer.

The collection looks really modern and cool. The generously large trousers, the interesting prints and the styling of the first few outfits, look ultra contemporary. Although, some people feel disappointed with Federico Curradi's collection. When compared to last seasons' younger and hipper vibe, some pieces in this collection seem bizzare, and frankly speaking, ugly. So, a mixed review from me today - although there are some outfits I really liked, some were disappointing.

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VERSACE S/S 15









































On her trip to Cuba, Donatella Versace found inspiration from the culture, the people and the fashion around her. This seasons' collection, showcases Cuban-style, infused with Italian tailoring. Classic mesh vests, commonly worn in hotter climates, teamed with a leather handbag to show the infusion of the two cultures. Not one to showcase only cheap barrio fishnet, Donatella added loafers lined with gold links, gold detailing along jackets and jeans and a cardigan cabled in gold to maintain a luxurious flair. The show was great for showing off Versace House; the furniture branch of the Italian brand. The models carried picnic baskets, backpacks filled with tablewear and some, held Versace branded plates down the runway.

The collection showed great colour, ice-creamily coloured pinks, complimented by clean whites and stark blacks. Some models had mini vials of perfume around their necks and once again, showing off the famous Versace gold chain. The collection is definitely Donatella, bold colours, rich golds and pin-sharp tailoring. We'd expect nothing less from the Italian queen.

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26.6.14

NEIL BARRETT S/S 15








































Neil Barrett's collection this season was all about uniform and discipline. The models looked strong and confident, in sharply tailored outfits, carefully styled looks, which also packs a street-style vibe. The clothes ensures comfort and utility for the wearer, such as zips on jackets, which falls in the right place, for hands to be put into pockets. Nothing screams style and masculinity like a leather jacket and in this collection, there was plenty. Recoloured and re-textured to give choices to choose from, and by presenting it on different looks, Neil shows the versatility of it.

This collection is definitely something I'd wear. I really like the clean opening, the white jackets and clean trousers, later bursting into classic, cream clothes and adding a touch of black tones here and there. The collection is very smooth, in the sense that it looks great and is styled very smartly, yet some pieces can still be manipulated to appear urban.

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25.6.14

DOLCE & GABBANA S/S 15































Season after season, Dolce and Gabbana have used themes and inspiration from Sicily. It makes sense after learning the designer duo are from Italy and are very, very proud of their heritage. Only this time, the clothes includes Spanish influences. The show featured red - and lots of it. Outfits inspired by madators and their bullfighting uniforms, the collection boasts heavy red brocade jackets, teamed with 3/4 length trousers and finished with fur lined slippers. Classic suits marked the finale of the show, in various tones, before a bloodbath of red, finally closed the show.

Personally, I liked the collection, however there were some looks that didn't make the cut. I can see a lot of the same shapes and silhouettes from last seasons show - look #3, came from the same Medival collection last Fall with the generously large 3/4 top, tightly tailored pants and slippers and the same, tired, satin suits. Recolouring is great, it gives the consumer choices, but as a collection with 77 looks, it's clearly used for fillers. However, the grande finale did sway me. And #2, 5 and 6 look great. They bring a fresh concept to the show, which suprisngly look wearable. All in all, a good collection, showing another side of Sicillian themes. But does Dolce and Gabbana's collections have a shelf-life?

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24.6.14

CORNELIANI S/S 15











































After last seasons' darker and sombre collection, Sergio Corneliani presented a lighter show for Spring 2015. The show focuses on the modern man, who still clings onto his heritage. Corneliani presented models in classic white pants, with a contemporary and urban twist, for example adding grey rain-coat. This collection is for the busy, city man - who works hard whilst balances his style. The show uses light and cool materials, to ensure the wearer is comfortable and cooled down in the bright summer of 2015.

I really like this collection, I thought his last one was amazing and it just keeps getting better. The clothes are very stylish and super wearable. I can easily picture Simone Marchetti wearing one of these looks, on his way to a fashion show. Although the collection may not be easily worn in New York or London, Corneliani has made this for his hometown, of Milan.

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23.6.14

BURBERRY PRORSUM S/S 15











































Bruce Chatwin was an English novelist and travel writer who died in Nice, France at the age of only 48. For Burberry's Spring 2015 collection, Christopher Bailey said "He was completely British, but he struggled to stay in one place.", Chatwin became the muse for Bailey this season, as the clothes had heavy emphasis on luxury travel wear. The denim jackets, the suedes and the big floppy hats are the perfect accompaniment for travelling. Written across jackets, scarves and bags read "Adventure!" and "Exploration!", adding a humorous and modern flair to the collection.

The models carried notebooks and large weekend bags to reference the travelling aspect and the functionality of the collection - not only does the collection boast luxury and wealth, but also usefulness and function. The colours from the show featured weathered tones, faded greens and rich browns, all of which show the influence of Bruce Chatwin. This collection is not only for the man who travels, but for the man who is aware of his style and his appearance - making it perfect for any man.

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22.6.14

TOPMAN DESIGN S/S 15












































For this seasons' collection, you can really see where Topman Design team drew their influences - Jimi Hendrix's nonchalant style during the 1960s, with tight but flare pants, teamed with a floral shirt and a suede jacket. Liam Gallagher's care-free parka and messy hair combo also made an appearance in the collection. The look screams 'Don't mess with me!' and adds a masculine punch. However, Robert Plant's infamous mini kimono shirt added a touch of flamboyancy. Back in the day, Robert Plant wore his blouse with flair denim jeans and also messy hair.

I think it's easy to dismiss this collection as messy and outdated, but after seeing the influences of British rock stars (and one American), the collection is clearly about history and the modern remake. Surprisingly, the bottom row of looks (above) are my favourite. I like the colours and the shapes of it all. Whilst some looks might appear too flamboyant or camp, the messy hair and the nonchalant attitude of the male models makes it very masculine and very strong.

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